Los Lagos, El Districto de los Lagos, Chile 30-5-2010

Odometer: 5529.8

HAPPY BIRTHDAY POPS!!!!
HAPPY WEDDING SETH AND BRIDE!!!!

Congrats to my cousin Dave for holding out. I think we are the only 2 left. Strong work Dave.

Puerto Mont, Chile 29-5-2010

Odometer:5330.7

Chaiten, Chile 28-5-2010

Nice long boat ride to Puerto Mont.

Puyuhuapi, Patagonia, Chile 27-5-2010

no pictures of the above as we are having some technical problems.

Uncle Walter

the road from Chile Chico to Coihaique, Chile

Odometer:5060.1 miles

Arrived today with daylight left and without incident. But, it feels like I've been here before. The first photo shows the rod along the lake, look closely along the shore on the left. The second photo is taken when I got closer to the mountains, which are the background in the first photo. The third photo is what the road looks and feels like, except you can't see the mountains for the trees and the camera just couldn't capture it. The fourth is one of many lakes and ponds and waterfalls along the way. The last photo does not really show how much snow was on top of the pass into Coihaique. The top 6 miles had me a bit worried as the snow was not melted by the sun over the last 2 days. It was only about an inch deep in the middle of the road, so not too bad. Just hope there are no more opportunities to demonstrate control on ice, but I am loosing the battle with trying to move north faster than winter is setting into the Andes. Day light hours are getting short. The sun angle is not too steep any more at high noon. As I drive north it makes it as high as bothersome to look into. As you can tell in all the photos, 82 and sunny.

Uncle Walter

Rio Tranquilo, Patagonia, Chile

El Puerto Tranquilo, Patagonia, Chile. 24-5-2010

Odometer: 4920.4 miles (20-5-2010)

The last 8 days has been something that is best summed up by nephew Phillip. “I….I….I don’t want to talk about it.” But, sometimes Phil, it is better to face up to it. So here is the short version. In all photos here after, la Poderosa will no longer look all shiny and new. Uncle Walter will no longer look all shiny and new, either. I know what the inside of 2 different rural ambulances look like in two different countries, Argentina and Chile. I know what the inside of 2 rural hospitals look like in said countries. I know what the x-ray machine in the former looks like and the CT scanner looks like in the latter. All of which I would not repeat. I would rather have encephalitis again. Well...OK...cholera...hmmm...fall into the Berring Sea or breake my leg?

However, there is a silver lining in all dark clouds. Well, actually, gold in this case. The paramedics and families in these rural areas are the only reason I bring the past week up. From the first pain medicine and steroid injection at the scene just out side Bajo Caracoles (BC) by Maria Leon and her ambulance driver Victor (el rey), (305 km round trip ride #1) to the owners of the Hostel(Hostel Ruta 40) in BC (Maria Luisa, Mario, and Tono) who let me stay 3 nights to recoup in their hostel, and feed me, even though it was shut for the 6 month low tourist season and they were gone, to the police in BC, who guarded my bike in my absence, to the paramedics in Rio Tranquilo, ( Jose Miguel, Francisco, and Jesse) who correctly shipped me off (ambulance ride #2, 221 km one-way) to Coihaique for a head CT after recognizing that my symptoms of nausia, vomitting and dizzyness may be from an undiagnosed head injury from 3 days ago, and who also wrote to my family to inform them of my trip to Coihaique, Chile, to the last paramedic,( Lidia) who, after a negative head ct, negative exam, negative labs, and I still passed out 3 times,( each time just standing there waiting in the check out /payment line, in the er) as I was being signed out by the ER physician, stood up and made them admit me for three days of observation, ( and who’s face was in the little circle of faces each time they got me to come around and put me on the gurney, and came to visit every day) to Paulo, a young highschooler who is doing his volunteer hours now in hopes to get in to medical school next year, who translated what I couldn’t get, and brought food, because family’s normally do that, to the last family here in Rio Tranquilo, (Hostel Los Pinos, Alfredo, Irene, and Rosa) who guarded my bike for me the four days I was in the second hospital, held my room, and now are still taking care of me as I write this, knowing full well their visa account is closed for the season and won't work, (its the only card I have), that there is no cash machine available for 221 km, and I do not have enough Chilean Pesos and $US on me to pay the current bill, let alone the next few days expenses, to all those otherwise involved that didn't get mentioned, I can not thank all of you enough. Wow! How could I! Where would I start? Where would I end? Thank you!

And some of you were worried about me before I left the states. Come on people.

If the Cold Spring, Richmond and Rockville Fire Departments are half this helpful, then all you meat loafers had better be going to all their events and spending all your money in their support. Small towns can’t run without them. I don’t think so. Don’t care where you are. Little towns need volunteers, or you got nothing.

A huge, huge hug to all who volunteer.

Uncle Walter

Sorry, only one picture taken, I was kinda busy trying to get my arm to work, or didn’t have access to my camera, while being put back onto the gurney, again and again and again.

Final Tally:

DIGGERS at 170 mph: 0. My bike don't go that fast.
DIGGERS at 50 mph: 1
SUMMERSAULTS BY UNCLE WALTER: 3. full layout into rock/dirt-1, crumpled into rock/dirt-1, wet noodle into rock/dirt-1.
SUMMERSAULTS BY LA PODEROSA:2. i think. the first i wittnessed first hand somewhere between my summersalts 1 nd 2 as i was upside down in the air, looking backwards toward la poderosa as she was also upside down and backwards in the air. the next i am not sure, as i was busy with my own routine, but the big digs in the dirt suggest another tumble by the bike.
X-RAYS: 1. negative for fracture.
CT SCANS OF THE HEAD: 1-negative as well.
DAYS FURTHER BEHIND:8
UNCLE WALTERS AS GOOD AS NEW: 1
NEW BODY WORK FOR LA PODEROSA: duct tape and wire, also good as new.
TOTAL HOSPITALS/AMBULANCES BILLS: $221.00. US.
TOTAL DEBT TO VOLUNTEERS: unpayable.

Baho Caracoles, Santa Cruz, Argentina

Bajo Caracoles, Santa Cruz, Argentina. 5-16-2010

Odometer: 4617.4 miles

Bajo Caracoles must be close to no where. I arrived only 1 to 2 hours after dark. The last piece of tar I saw was just over 390 miles back. Traffic was very heavy today too, a total of 13 cars, the last just over 160 miles before I finished for the night. When I pulled into town the local policeman was waiting for me. He said he could see my headlight about 7 miles away and thought he would wait to see what was wrong. People generally don’t come up Ruta 40 at night, and never in the winter. I had spotted the lights of the city at least 7 miles away. I had only been lost for the last 5 hours or so. By dead reckoning, choosing the fork that inclined most northward I found the right road. There had been 3 different times during the day that ruta 40 had split with out a sign as to which fork went where. I must have chosen poorly at one point, but found the way in the end. Bad Uncle Watler.

The policeman directed me to only hotel in town and said hw would look in on me in the morning. I was gone to La Cueva de Las Manos, before he arrived. When I got back to the hotel around 12:00, the hotel owner asked if I knew why the police were looking for me. I told him they were concerned about the place I was staying. He just looked at me funny.

La Cueva de las Manos, Bajo Calacoles, Argentina. 5-17-2010

La Cueva de las Manos is out next to the middle of nowhere. You have to go through nowhere to get there. I know this, because I just went though nowhere yesterday to get to Bajo Calacoles. They think the cave and the canyon were first inhabited about 10,000 years ago. That is older than Uncle Walter. The hunting pictures (the paintings of animals and such) date about 10,000 years ago. The positive hand paintings ( where they painted there hand with paint and placed it on the wall) date back about 2560 years ago, when Uncle Walter was a young lad. The negative hand prints (where the paint is sprayed around the hand) date back about 2190 years ago, about when Uncle Walter first learned to be naughty from Uncles Skosh and Math. All eras can be seen in the first photo. Most of the prints are of the left hand. They also obvioulsy tried to potty train their cat, and one dude didn't have any hands, so they used his foot. Through chemical analysis they can tell the colors used are from local minerals in the soil. It was mixed with the blood from guanacos. It was too pasty still, so they added human urine to make it really soupy. It was then sucked up in to the mouth through an old guanaco bone and blown across the hand. (Sounds delightful, huh Knut?)

There are two outstanding theories as to why the hand prints are smaller and with narrow fingers, and the majority left. Both theories start with the people being mostly right handed and therefore holding the bone straw in the right hand to paint. Here the theories part. The first then, is that the prints are mostly of young males receiving rights of passage into adulthood. The other is that the prints are mostly made by mothers and their children while the men were out hunting and gathering. It all sounded fishy to me and my fellow tour member Roberto. There had to be a better explanation.

Now, thanks to Uncle Walter and Roberto there is a third and most plausible theory. It is called the Roberto and Uncle Walter Most Plausible Theory. It is simple and comprehensive. “Todos los gringos a la pared!! Esta abajo aresto!!” When we demonstrated it for the photo, the tour guide asked to explain why mostly left prints then. I explained Skosh, Math and I used our right hands to gesture to the arresting officer while his partner took our prints. The dates are explained in the first paragraph. Simple. Better.

Uncle Walter

P.S. Knut, the next time your mom serves peas, just eat them.

El Chalten, Patagonia, Argentina

5-11-2010 El Chaten, Patagonia, Argentina

Odometer: 4235.3 miles.

El Chaten is the northern entrance to El Parque Nacional Los Glaciers. After 2 days of rain, snow and wind, the sun came out there was perfect weather. For the first 2 days there were only 3 of us in the Hostel. A women from France who could not speak much Spanish summed the first two days of hiking. “Nubes! Nubes! No Fits Roy, no Torres! No! No!” On the 2nd day of rain and snow I debated staying in, but then I thought... what would Meemers do? Wet boots, wet boots on the wrong feet, none of that matters. Outside is where the fun is, I am going out side, too. There haveto be some puddles with with name on them. It was great! Thanks, Meemers! And Ahhh, the sun came out on the third day. The last 2 photos are taken at the same spot, just 2 days apart.

Uncle Walter

El Glaciar Perito Moreno

El Calafate, Patagonia, Argentina. 5-9 -2010

Odometer: 3960.4 miles

El Calafate is the southern entrance to El Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. It is a huge park. The Chilean side is even bigger. I stopped here to see Glaciar Perito Moreno. Wow, was it cool! They estimate it takes only 400 some years for the ice to travel from it's beginning before it falls off into Lago Argentino. And when it falls, it really crashes. The glacier makes noises all day and all night. You can hear ice crunching inside the glacier and outside as it falls into the lake with a bang. I only managed to capture one smaller crash on film. You have to blow the pictures up, but look just above center. The wall is estimated to be 20 stories above the water and 40 stories underwater. The chunk I caught on film was all 20 stories, it just happened to be a long way away and I had a 50 mm lens.

Uncle Walter.

ps. A guy could serve a lot of brandies with all that ice, huh, Bobby?

Chile-Arg boarder, Cancha Carrrera, Patagonia 5-9-10

After leaving the park the sun never came out. The temp never came up. By 10:30 I made it to the Chile/Argentina boarder, at Cancha Carrera. It is a small town of 3 blocks by 4 blocks. It took me only 3 times to find the gas station on the edge of town. The station attendant, an 8 year old boy, was happy, friendly and very talkative. Before I could take his picture his mother called him back into the house to help with something. If you look closely in front, by the head light of la poderosa, you can see the little door where he passed the gas hose out to me. It was the best gas station I’ve found yet.

From there I went looking for food. There are 2 places in town to eat. The bigger one which had 2 cars out front, and the little one that had smoke coming out the chimney. I went to the smaller. The nice little lady said lunch was no where near ready, but maybe she could round something up in an hour or so. I said that would be fine, I only had an hour or two to El Pargue National de los Glaciers. The dinning room was cold, because it’s little heater had not been lit. She invited me into the kitchen to sit by the fire while I waited. She made tea for the 2 of us and we chatted. Then the home made buns came out of the oven. They were served with real butter and fresh chile. Then, the egg-drop soup arrived, followed by lamb stew on noodles. All the while we talked about her first grand child, her kids, the ranch, life in the states. I did not order any of it, I had just asked if she was making lunch. She just kept tending the fire, serving the food and dotting. I don’t think I could have gotten Pops out of her kitchen. .

I was the second person to cross the boarder that day. After signing all the paperwork for the Chilean customs officer, which includes 4 signatures, he said “ Y las llaves, por favor.” I looked at him oddly, while getting the keys out of my pocket. He pointed to the last signature and said in perfect English. “ I now own you motorcycle.” I started laughing, handed him the keys, and said, “Buena suerte, y no olvide a cambiar el acete, esta un poco quemado.” He handed back the keys and laughed “ Entonces, que tenga un buen viaje.”

The sun never came out and the temperature never made it above the mid twenties, but it was 82 and sunny.

Uncle Walter

Ps. Syd, I know Pops got that, but can you translate that for Butts. Thanks.

Torres del Paine May 7-9, 2010

Odometer: 3750.2


Torres del Paine National Park is named after the granite towers of rock. It is located out near the end of the world. It is it's own destination, making it more remote. It is mostly closed for the winter and close to nothing is open. It is beautiful but desolate this time of year.

After getting some incorrect information from the entrance Forrest Ranger, I found my self in a little bit trouble. No camp grounds were open and darkness was setting in. There was a group of scientists, who had just finished the year in Antarctica, looking for shelter and food as well. They had talked to the same ranger. The ranger at the North entrance said this place was open. Ooops. That was over 48 km back, and darkness had set in. We all made camp near the South ranger station.

The wind blew all night. I spent the night under the wind, I mean, the stars, hidden behind a clump of bushes and shrubs. The scientists hid behind the next group of bushes. I was awoken by the snow mixed with rain around 0:200. I pulled the bevy over my head and went back to sleep. Around sunrise the wind stopped and never picked back up. The day was clear and sunny. 82'F and sunny, well more like 35, but what a great day in the park. I bike and hiked all morning. No place to eat till around 2:00, making it 26 hours from my last meal. I was a bit hungry when I came across an open restaurant. I only had to only pay $27.00 for a burger with lettuce and tomato, fries and a coke. Ahhhh.

Having eaten enough for the day, I did bike maintenance and made camp in a closed for the season campground. I slept under the stars again. Around 01:00 I was awoken by what sounded like hoof beats. It was the first of about a dose horses. I said "Guten abend, Herr Pferd," to the first one, as I couldn't remember the word caballo. He stopped, turned his head and looked at me. Then my Spanish came back. I said "Buenos Noches, Don Caballo, como le va?" He neighed a very nice reply, shook his head up and down 2 times like horses do, gesturing if he could continue. I said, Passe, no me hace caso.” He nodded again and continued. The others simlpy kept moving. 6 or so passed between me and La Poderosa, not touching a thing. The others on one side or the other. I guess they were not much up for chatting.

Sun rise was beautiful. There was no wind and I left the park.

Uncle Walter

Ride from Provnir to Torres del Paine May 6+7. 2010

Got up before sun rise and made it to the ferry on time. The ferry crossed the Estrecho de Magallanes in about 2 and half hours. Sun rise looked promising. It was about 24'F at the start. One hour into the ride the winds picked up and it started to snow. A bit later rain mixed in. Then snow, rain and wind, the straight of Magellan living up to it’s reputation. A perfect day for a duck and Uncle Walter. I hunkered down in Punta Arenas and worked on la Poderosa. Odometer on arrival 3502.6

5/7

Arose after sunrise and left late. The roads by then were in good shape, mas or menos. In a small bay on the way out, some splashing along the shore line caught my eye. It turned out to be dolphins eating. They are fast! I would hate to be a little fish. One minute just hanging out in school, learning what ever it is little fish learn, and kabamb!!! you're a dolphin scooby snack. The little fishes had no chance. It was a great show.

The ride from there took me back out across the pampas (the desert grass lands of Patagonia). The winds stayed down till after 1:00, than steadily picked up. I stopped to take the above picture of the ranch named after Chula-bean and could tell it was about to start. About 30 minutes later I came across a cattle drive like the one pictured. The cattle drive had bout 150 head coming down the road. I stopped, shut the engine off, put the kickstand down, leaned into the wind (onto the kickstand) to watch. Bammmmmmb! Along came a big gust! Couldn't hold her. La Poderosa and Uncle Walter got knocked over flat. Took about 1/3 of a second and I was eating sand, La Poderosa unscratched. By the time I got the bike back up, with the help of some nice Argentinos, I was surounded by cows, dogs and cowboys. Couldn't take a picture as the wind kept blowing and it took 3 of us to keep the bike upright. When all the cows past a guy with a van pulled up and blocked the wind long enough for me to get going. I only got knocked over 1 more time, about an hour later. I had stopped to take a picture of los torres, in a well protected spot and a gust came form no where and flattened me and the bike again. No worries, no one hurt.

Uncle Walter

5-5-10 Provenir, Chile

Odometer: 3483
Turned out to be a nice day for a ride. The last 94 miles into Provenir from the Arg/Chile boarder were all dirt. I saw 4 cars the entire drive. 2 I passed as we left the boarder together and the same 2 passed me when I stopped to take the pictures of the flamingos for little Rose, 1 km out of Provenir. Thought little Rose would like them. The road was one curve and hill after another. Missed the ferry by only 14 hours. I was hoping to mae it to Punta Arenas. Will catch the next tomorrow at 08:00.

Uncle Walter

5-3-2010 Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

Odometer: 3134.5 miles

I pulled into Ushuaia a little after dark last night. The ride from Rio Gallegos is not too far, but you have to cross the Argentina-Chile boarder twice and take a ferry ride. The 100 miles through Chile is almost all dirt and is failry rough. The wind persisted all day except for the last 60 miles or so. As you enter the mountains before getting to Ushuaia the trees begin to return and the wind abates. The scenery becomes fantastic. The temperature kept dropping and got below freezing. There was snow at the top of the pass and down the back side into Ushuaia. All went well.

Ushuaia is a big town nestled between the mountains and the ocean. To celebrate Pepillon's birthday I got up early and went searching for penguins. I was hoping to kiss one for her, but there are none to be found. They are all at sea and will stay out there for 6 to 9 months. They only come ashore to lay their eggs and raise the little ones a wee bit before heading back out.

With that I went to El Parque National Tierro del Fuego. It is a wonderful park. The mountains look alot like the Rockies, but because of their exteme southern locatioin the tree line is much lower. The peaks are snow covered. The sun came out when it could. I made to the end of the road. The Pan-American highway winds no further. The little gps I have says I am only 7253 miles away(S 54'51.31.7" W 068'34.00"). All vectors from here will have a northward inclination. That means only one thing. Ma start making the goody rolls, I am on way home! I should be home sometime between late August and your birhtday. I think the road in the Andes between here and home might be a little bendy. Actual milage may vary.

Uncle Walter

5-1-10 Rio Gallegos, Patagoñia, Argentina

I have pushed hard to make it to Southern Argentina. I would have gone much slower if not for the poor start. oh well. Rio Gallegos is the the last city before entering Tierra del Fuego. I will head to Ushaiua tomorrow morning. Crossing the southern part of Argentina has been a test of will. Form Bahia Blanca to Rio Gallegos it is all desert. It starts out looking like the worst of Texas: shrubs, cactus and sand to rock and wind. The shrubs start out about 3 feet tall and just get smaller till there is nothing, then they gradualy start to grow again, now here at Rio Gallegos abut 4 inches.

I had heard how stong the wind is while crossing Patagonia, but wow!! you have to feel it to believe it. The Dakotas have nothing on Patagonia. There was a steady strong, west to east wind as I headed south. This caused the bike to lean into the wind; a starboard list. A list so strong that in turns to port at highway speeds, the bike stayed in a starboard list. The wind was present and steady all 3 days. Exposed skin was simply sandblasted. It tooks it´s toll on the poderosa and me, but we made´r. And the temp continues to drop, now about 38F.

Tomorrow I will push on to Ushuia, where the road ends.

Uncle Walter

PS. some facts: if you like that kinda thing.
1. starting milage Buenos Aires 881.5
2. overnighted in the following cities:
1. arriveed Necochea waiting for the title: 1200+ miles
2. Las Grutas: 1848 miles. 4-29
3. Caleta Olivia: 2322.5 miles. terrible hotel, but friendly 4-30
4, Rio Gallegos: 2,768.5 miles. 5-1
2. my exercise gps indicates Necochea is 6340 miles from the shack.
3. the southern cross really points south.
4. still looking to kiss un lobo marino.