Cabo de la Vela, La Guajira, Colombia 28-8-2010

 
 
 
 

Cabo de la Vela, La Guajira, Colombia 28-8-2010

Odometer: 14,283.5 miles

Rain in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Recorded temp: 105.4 F

We thought that since we both had made it to the most southern part of South America, Ushuaia, we should try for the most northern part, Punta Gallinas, as well. The roads got a little difficult, and after 52 miles of slick, bumpy, wet clay mud soup, we calledér a day, stopping about 100+ miles short of or our destination and knowing we had to go back the same way the next day.

Uncle Walter

Sister Mary Clem, today I had chicken foot soup and at the bottom of the bowel I found two chicken feet. Hmmm, hmmm, good! I only hope they cleaned the chicken poop out from under the toe nails before putting them in.

La Jagua de Ibirico, La Guajira, Columbia 27-8-2010

 
 
 

La Jagua de Ibirico, La Guajira, Columbia 27-8-2010

Odometer: 14,036.8 miles

Sister Mary Memers, you will never guess what happened today!! It rained. It rained all day. It never really stopped raining today. At times it was just your regular rain, and then it would rain like cats and dogs. I never understood what that meant, however, if a couple of cats and dogs came down with the rain today, you would not have noticed. At times the water moving on the roads was so much the movement made you car sick. (Well, if you can get car sick on a motorcycle) Between rains it rained. We were only 9 hours on the road today. If you subtract out the four hours it rained in the morning and subtract out the 5 hours it rained in the afternoon, and subtract out the 2 or so hours where it just poured and subtract out the 15 minutes or so where you couldn´t really call it rain, and add back the 2 minutes that the sun almost came out from behind the clouds, then you could call it a beautiful day. So, I do.

The day is recorded as such: Uncle Walter´s Log: La Guajira, Columbia: earth date 27-8-2010: 82 and Sunny.

Uncle Walter

See how easy that is. It is all in the approach.

Gramalote, Norte de Santander, Columbia 26-8-2010

 
 
 
 

Gramalote, Norte de Santander, Columbia 26-8-2010

Odometer: 13,787.7 miles

Sister Mary Chula-Bean, if you are the kinda girl who likes to ride a motorcycle through the back roads of the Columbian Andes in the rain, covered in mud and dirt, then today was the day made for you. Another excelente day! It only took 7 hours to move the 82 miles or so, most likely due to the heavy mule traffic, waterfalls, and churhing.

Moving fast in Columbia.

Uncle Walter

Pamplona, Norte de Santander, Colombia 25-8-2010

 
 

Pamplona, Norte de Santander, Colombia 25-8-2010

Odometer: 13,704.1 miles

The ride from Barichara to Pamplona was quite a surprise. We were told it would be very hot, but just the opposite was true. Just east of Bucaramanga we started to ascend. The road went through the first layer of clouds and then above tree level. Sadly, there was a second layer of clouds above and we never saw the sun. We were stopped by the military police for a routine check. It is always the same set of questions: where are you going and where are you coming from. Once those questions are answered you can´t stop the flood of questions about the trip. Today there were only two, so it only took about 15 minutes, when there are 6 it takes sometimes over 40 minutes. Who knows what they are looking for or who they are supposed to stop, but they cannot be interrupted once the questions are started and all the cars are waved through as we talk.

Uncle Walter

Barichara, Santander, Columbia 24-8-2010

 
 
 

Barichara, Santander, Columbia 24-8-2010

Odometer: 13,549.6 miles

On our way out of Villa de Leyva we decided to continue on with the country lanes or secondary roads of Colombia and stay off the main routes with all the traffic. We cut through some great little towns, Toqui´, Chitaraqui, Vado Real and northward to Socorro, Sanqil, and finally into Barichara. The roads turned out to be fun as well as beautiful. Of course, about 15 miles into it, the country lane turned into a dirt road. We ran into some big traffic jams. I had time to catch one on film. We arrived in Barichara in time to have a late lunch, find a nice hostal and run around the town taking pictures like a bunch of tourists. There are no internet cafes, so the blogging had to wait another day.

Uncle Walter

Clem, on today´s menu….fish head soup. Delicious! One thing was strange, there was no head at the bottom of the bowel. You don´t think it was the crunchy thing I ate? Huh??

Villa de Leyva, Cuninamarca, Columbia 22-8-2010

 
 
 
 

Villa de Leyva, Cuninamarca, Columbia 22-8-2010

Odometer: 13,386.7 miles

After the rally, it rained. We were escorted though some beautiful country lanes to our hotel in Villa de Leyva by some of the bikers who live in the area. That was really cool, as most of the roads were not on our maps. Villa de Leyva is a tranquil little mountain village, quiet and peaceful. In the restaurant, our waitress was a cute, sociable, 10 year old named Erica. After a long discussion of school, her grades, the village, tourists, and of course…her boy friend’s…No tengo, ninguno and cero, Erica asked one simple question that had both Fernando and myself in stitches. Señor, why is your hair turing transparent? The area was so nice we stayed an extra day to cruise the mountain lanes and visit the ostrich farm. It rained.

Uncle Walter

Yes, Sister Mary Marge, I kissed about 5 of them and not one Princess.

Yes, Sister Mary Mousey-bean, I´ll keep trying.

Barbosa, Santender, Columbia. 21-8-2010

 
 
 
 

Barbosa, Santender, Columbia. 21-8-2010

Odometer: 13, 325.8 miles

On a very nice little country highway in the mountains of Columbia we were past by four motorcycles. They pulled over and signaled us to stop. They were members of the ¨ZipaquiraDragons¨, a motorcycle club, and on there way to a rally in Barbosa and Puente. They asked us to join them for the weekend. We thought for one second and joined them. We met some great people, had loads of fun, police escorts, free food, free drinks, good laughs, and made many good friends, but no time for blogging. And of course, more maps on napkins for the trip northward.

The people Columbia love the motorcycle. It is a symbol of their on coming freedom and safety that has been coming on over the last 10 years or so. The towns invite the bikers to events, create events so they will come. The people wave, wave flags, clap and cheer when you come into their towns. Old, young, men, women, kids. They love them. And the louder the better. All the bikers ware Harley Davdison, though only 2 had hogs. German, the dude in the 2nd picture drove a Yahmah. No one cares, it is all about the fun, getting to know people and getting out. The kids climb over the bikes. The girls pose on them for thier pictures. The old ladies go for rides. The police always give the thumbs up when you go past. Maybe next year they can afford a Hog, but this year the clothes and 125 cc bike made in China will do. It is really quite something.

You gotta love Columbia.

Uncle Walter

Zipaquira, Cuindinamarca, Columbia 20-8-2010

Zipaquira, Cuindinamarca, Columbia 20-8-2010

Odometer: 13,221.4 miles

It rained. My front(dim) light bulb burnt out. It rained. A short caused the fuse to blow. I lost my high beam and rear light. It rained. We got caught in very heavy traffic in the small towns around Bogata´. We drove for over an hour past dark. No lights, in the dark, in the rain, no food, in Columbia. Arrived in Zipaquira only to find bad food but good beer.

Life is good.

Uncle Walter

Tombs of Segovia, Columbia

 
 
 
 

San Andres de Pisimbala, Cauca, Colombia 19-8-2010

 
 
 
 

San Andres de Pisimbala, Cauca, Colombia 19-8-2010

Odometer: 12,908.7

We decided that the Pan-American is too busy for safe driving and therefore to cut back across the Andes on the small back roads rather then follow up the main valley. Another excellent decision!! 60 miles of dirt, rain, mmuuuuud, and a lot of fun. Because of the non-stop rain there have been several landslides. In the picutre above, the front-end-loader-driver was so escared to drive the road I had to lead. From there the road got worse. We continued.

When I stooped to take the third picture the 2 young girls came up and asked me if I needed help. I asked them if they knew if the road went to Speckville. I got giggles and funny looks, but no real answer. So, I am sure it does, as all roads lead to Speckville. Right Rose.


When we arrived in San Andres the rain stopped and we toured the pre-inca tombs of Segovia. Uncle Walter now got so escared---eewww scaried chicken—--he could hardly go down into the tombs to take the pictures. But, from the top of the hill we could see a place with a swimming pool. It had Uncle Walter written all over it, and at $12.00/night---Splurge!!!!

Uncle Walter

Meemers, don´t tell your grandpa I got escared in the tombs. Thanks.

Popayan, Cauca , Columbia 18-8-2010

 
 
 
 

Popayan, Cauca , Columbia 18-8-2010

Odometer: 12,829.8 miles

It rained for most of the ride to Popayan. It cleared long enough to take one photo along the road, and then cleared just before dark. Popayan is a white-washed colonia city; quiet and mellow. It has good beer, but we have to keep pushing north.

Uncle Walter

I don´t know Beccaboop,do you think Uncle Walter rode into the rainy season in South America?

Pasto, Southern Columbia. 17-8-2010

Odometer: 12,670.4 miles

No pictures today. It was a beautiful morning in Ecuador, but we were on the Pan-American Highway. It is not designed for taking pictures. In Ecuador, the Pan-American is narrow, windy, and full of buses, trucks and cars, all going too fast and with the strong believe God will protect them. The reality is they all went to Pedro´s over aggressive driving school for really, really bad and overly aggessive drivers.

It took over 2 hours to cross the border, and more than an additional 2 hours to find motorcycle insurance. And then it rained like cats and dogs, only to slow down to a constant drizzle. The bad driving habits of Ecuador are mirrored in Columbia, with the only real difference being the presence of over armored police and military types at check points, on motorcycles, in cars and armored vehicles. But all very friendly and helpful.

It is all looing goooooood from here!

Uncle Walter

PS. Good call Liam, I did cross the equator just north of Quito.

Otavalo, Northern Highlands, Ecuador 15-8-2010

 
 
 
 

Otavalo, Northern Highlands, Ecuador 15-8-2010

Odometer: 12460.1

The weather finally broke a little, the sun came out and I could see farther than 10 meters. The views into the valleys were spectacular, but the clouds would not leave the peaks. It took all day, but finally one snow capped volcano almost came out of hiding. You could tell the rest must be great, but they will have to wait for another trip.

Off to Columbia tomorrow.

Uncle Walter