Usuluta´n, El Salvador 22-9-2010

Usuluta´n, El Salvador 22-9-2010

Odómetro: 16,331.2

Today we made a big run from Nicaragua across Honduras and into El Salvador. Crossing two borders in one day is not a recommended way to spend a perfectly hot day in Central America. A day where the heat came up high enough to where I felt good. The sun beat down, the humidity reached 1,015% and the winds remained still. Gorgeous. Every pore pouring water and dirt back into my gear, replacing the fodder for the bacteria and fungus to grow just for ma. A day where it is too hot to be at the beach, a day too hot for the shade and air conditioned buildings. But the perfect day to wait in lines and get hasseled by hustlers. An excellent day indeed.

At the Nicaragua-Honduras border we met one of the nicest customs officer yet. As she filled out all the necessary papers she said we would need to pay $33.00, more or less, which would cover insurance, import taxes and the like. I asked if I could pay with Visa. ¨no¨came the reply. I then asked about $US. ¨no, only Honduran units in cash, please.¨ I asked if there was an ATM near. ¨no.¨ Hmmmm… “A bank? ¨ “yes, but they don´t exchange.” Hmmmm… “Then you want me to exchange with the thieves?” I asked, with a smile. Then continued with several comments on how this picture of me trading money with thieves and brutes and bandits just so I could drive across Honduras. Her eyes rolled, but a little twang of smile crossed her lips. I gushed forth with similes. How it is like driving cows to the butcher, chickens to the feather plucker, fresh water directly to the sewer….Now the smile and then laughter. Finally, she exchanged the money for us, out of her own pocket, at the known official bank rate of the day, just so I would shut up. She then told us how to get through the rest of the crap, thanked us for our understanding and for all the fun. Probably one of the more fun border crossings on this trip.

Uncle Walter

Leo´n, Leo´n, Nicaragua 20-9-2010

 

Leo´n, Leo´n, Nicaragua 20-9-2010

Odometer: 16,096.1

After 96 miles of driving, wow, what a long day. Better pullér over for a rest.

Uncle Walter

Granda, Granda Nicaragua 19-9-2010

Granda, Granda Nicaragua 19-9-2010

Odometer: 15.999.6 miles

Crossing the border into Nicaragua was almost as bad as trying to get my bike out of Miami. The boarder has no signs on either side, and after crossing the 500 meters of no-man’s land into Nicaragua, the feeling of third world confusion, dirt and filth, poverty and thieves, and all the other reasons why I love the third world became painfully apparent. All the people trying to earn a fast buck by creating confusion and angst came out of the wood work. The line to get through immigration only took 45 minutes in the blazing sun, only causing a few people to pass out. The hustlers never give you a seconds rest. Then you have to buy mandatory insurance, a nice lady in an air conditioned building, who warned us of the crap to come. Then off to customs, the first agent has no building, but is just the fat guy in the blue shirt, wearing a NY Yankees baseball cap, off wondering around. I found the fat boy in the shade, having a nap. From there it is off to find customs part 2. She was very friendly to me, but she hit the next guy in line over the knuckles with a ruler for not paying attention, twice. Then it is off to pay the $5.00 gringo fee and back to customs part three, who won´t see you unless you have the gringo fee canceled and you have the policemen´s signature, who is actually in uniform, but out in the shade of different tree. Of course then, you have to pay the $1.00 municipal tax, which really is the last bribe paid, before the final blessing to leave the border. No signs, no one to help but slimy hustlers. Busses and trucks lined up for miles on both sides, people all over the place cutting lines and bribing to move it along. It really is great. And after just 2.5 hours, you are on your way. Easy.

Uncle Walter

Happy Birthday Uncle Sharon!

Happy Birthday Aiden!

Technical difficulties continue.

Playa Flamingo, Gaunacaste, Costa Rica 16-9-2010

 

Playa Flamingo, Gaunacaste, Costa Rica 16-9-2010

Odometer: 15,837.6 miles

My camera momentarily came to life for a couple of photos today, with long bouts of death between the gasps, but there seems to be some glimmer of hope.

We rounded Lago Arenal and while taking pictures, or wishing to take pictures in my case, we were passed by a Costa Rican couple on a motorcycle. We periodically passed them, only to be passed again, depending who was taking pictures of what and where. When we pulled into a small place for lunch along the road, they came walking out. We started to talk. A bit into the chat we discovered we were both going to the pacific coast, but aiming for different beaches, maybe 40 miles apart. With that, the Costa Rican guy, Daniel, invited us to stay at his 5 bed-room guest house with beach view, swimming pool, and deck. It turned out to be a great place! So nice, we stayed an extra day just to enjoy the sun, the pool, the beach and the great company.

To totally change the subject: I have to admit, it finally happened. I washed my motorcycle clothes. After 8 weeks of sun, rain, humidity, sweat, and dirt, mixed with high temperatures, rain, humidity, dirt and sweat, and a lot of dirt and sweat, and dirt, and heat, and humidity, the stink and stench got to me. I wanted to wait till I got home, just so ma could get a good idea of just how much fun I was having, but I couldn´t make´r. Really, the smell wasn´t that bad, I am sure the odors that vented off the other guys I am/was riding with were a lot worse. You could smell them for miles. They smelt bad!!! Wow! Stinky! It´s like when Uncle Math cuts fresh seatter, only worse, if you can imagine. The straw that broke the camel´s back happened the other night when my riding jacket and pants got up on their own accord and went for a beer and didn´t invite me. The pigs. No full moon either. Just got up on their own and went drinking. I thought (to borrow a phrase from Peter Drontle and translate it for tender ears) ¨crap to Hades, gotta do something.¨

It´s off to Nicaragua.

Uncle Walter

La Fortuna de San Carlos, Alajuela, Costa Rica 15-9-2010

 
 

La Fortuna de San Carlos, Alajuela, Costa Rica 15-9-2010

Odómetro: 15,699.1 miles

Rain. Volcano buried in the clouds. Still, a beautiful place. Technical Difficulties continue. The camera took two breaths, one so I could send ma a flower, and the second so I could take a picture of a sloth for Rose. Then it died again. Stinkola.

Cahuita, Limón, Costa Rica 14-9-2010

Odómetro: 15522.3 miles

It would be negligent not to mention the temperature in the jungles of Panama into Costa Rica. To say it is not roasting hot would be a lie. To say that it is not smotheringly humid would be another lie. To say that it is not roasting hot and smotheringly humid in the same sentence, yet another lie. Still, suffice it to say, I like it hotter and can someone turn up the humidity, please?

No pictures. Experiencing technical difficulties.

Uncle Walter

Boguete, Chiriqui, Panama´ 12-9-2010

 
 
 
 

Boguete, Chiriqui, Panama´ 12-9-2010

Odómetro: 15,345.4 miles

We left the Pacific Coast and cut back into mainland Panama´. It was a very pleasant country lane the entire way. However, it did turn into a dirt road for most of 40 miles. Along that stretch it was single lane. We came across 2 consecutive old single-lane-rickety-rackety-bridges, just like the one that crossed into Cold Spring. Just before one bridge a part of the road had a deep sink-hole, marked by a tree planted in it. I Crossed out ont on to the first briidge with a smile. When I got out on to the bridge, I stopped to take the photo of the pot-hole. As I sat there, getting the camera out to take the photo I heard part of the bridge fall into the mud below. I thought ¨heighcky creighcky.¨ I was glad I had my ¨depends¨on.

Later in the day, at exactly 11:52 Panama’ time, (at full on high-way speeds, mind you) I noticed my shadow was still casting Southward, then, ½ second later, not South nor North, then a ½ second later, decidedly Norhtward. I thought ¨right on¨, the ¨Uncle Walternox.¨ The sun, due to the earth´s wobble, on its journey southward across the earth, combined with Uncle Walter moving northward, has just crossed Uncle Walter. Chevre! From now on, Uncle Walter´s shadow will be casting Northward and not Southward; the sun, no longer in my eyes, but rather, if not for my bucket, burning my ¨comb-over¨. ¿Are you like totally jealous, Gator-bean??

Happy Uncle Walternox, everybody!!

Uncle Walter

little friends on the playa, santa catalina, panama 11-9-2010

 
 
 
 

nice, huh, ccco-bean?

Uncle Walter

Playa Venado, Los Santos, Panamá 9-9-10

 
 
 
 

Playa Venado, Los Santos, Panamá 9-9-10

Odómetro: 14,981.1 miles

Had an excellent ride from Panama City to Playa Venado, sunshine, a few clouds and no rain. First no rain day since sometime back in Peru. The country side of Panama is wonderful. The mountains are not as high, nor the vallies as deep, but it is still great and very green. There seems to be a steady on shore breeze keeping the temperature down to just below too hot. The US $ bill is the currency, making conversion easy. The people are friendly and the food is good. Playa Venado is a surfing beach, but today the surf is down and the 5 surfers in town were all in the bar wondering what to do after the 2 weeks of perfect waves.

Santa Catalina, Ver Aguas, Panamá 10-9-2010

Odómetro: 15.174.4 mi8les

Another beautiful beach town. The sky was black this am and we decided to sit a day on the beach rather than put on riding gear. In the beginning of the trip, when it snowed as much as it rained, my riding gear was waterproof, now it is like wearing pampers. I guess you are never too young for ¨depends¨ but, do I have to wear them on my motorcycle trip across South America and Central America. It is so embarrassing.

Uncle Walter

Panamá City, Panamá, Panamá 5-9-2010

 
 
 
 

Panamá City, Panamá, Panamá 5-9-2010

Odómetro: 14,736.2 miles

After 4 days and 3 nights aboard the Stahlrattle it was good to get going on the bike again. It is always good to get away and have a rest from riding, but for this one case, that usually does not get me closer to the goodie rolls. We arrived in Panama City long before dark, but not in time to get the paper work done at customs to temporarily import the motorcycles. There are no customs agents in Carti and we had to drive 3 hours to Panama City, arriving after 16:00 to find customs in Panama City closed. The next day we were then told by customs we needed 3rd party insurance before they would fill out the paper work. The insurance companies would not under write the policy for bikes that do not have the proper papers from customs. I asked if they all had trained at the US Customs School of Dingle berries. With a good laugh under his belt the customs guy filled out the papers for me and I was off in search for insurance.

Uncle Walter

By-passing the Darien Gap--Life on the Stahlrattle 3-9-2010 to 6-9-2010

 
 
 
 

Life on the Stahlrattle 3-9-2010 to 6-9-2010

A boat ride from Cartagena, Colombia to Carti, Panama is a fun way to by-pass the Darien Gap. It was a great experience; that is if you like floating through beautiful tropical islands surrounded by turquoise waters and blue skies, eating excellent food, seeing gorgeous sunsets and sun rises and enjoying lively company. If not, then maybe life on the Stahlrattle is not for you. For example, Clem would not have liked it with all the snorkeling along the coral reefs, seeing the colorful fish and dolphins off the bow, eating lobster and shrimp for dinner and drinking all the pop you could stand. He is more of a cow tongue and pig´s feet and a slug of dry water to washer´down kinda guy, but that is how he does it and he still gets through, right Clem.

I don´t know why, but we loaded our bikes in the dark the night before we left. Hmmmm?

Uncle Walter

Thanks KK!!

Cartagena, Colombia 1-9-2010

 
 
 
 

Cartagena, Colombia 1-9-2010

Odómetro: 14,652.9 Miles

Rain. Found out today that it is not the rainy season in Colombia. Hmmm. I would like to see the rainy season.

Cartagena is an old walled city, very cool, or ¨chevere¨as they say here in South America. It has two really neat features, the old walled city and the fortress. I went and toured the old fortress, designed to protect the city. I was so glad Terry and Tommy were not with me. They would have been soooo escaredie-chicken. Try not to look at the picture of the dark tunnel too long, as you too may get escared and soil yourself. YYEwwwwww, escarredie-chicken.

Uncle Walter

The next set of blogs is sponsored by Aunt KK. Thank you, KK, in advance.

Santa Marta, Magdalena, Colombia 29-8-2010

Santa Marta, Magdalena, Colombia 29-8-2010

Odometer: 14,504.3 miles

Rain. Hot. Nice Hostal. New back tire, then a flat. Next city.

Uncle Walter

Happy Bitrhday Lindser B, my favorite resident!