El Glaciar Perito Moreno

El Calafate, Patagonia, Argentina. 5-9 -2010

Odometer: 3960.4 miles

El Calafate is the southern entrance to El Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. It is a huge park. The Chilean side is even bigger. I stopped here to see Glaciar Perito Moreno. Wow, was it cool! They estimate it takes only 400 some years for the ice to travel from it's beginning before it falls off into Lago Argentino. And when it falls, it really crashes. The glacier makes noises all day and all night. You can hear ice crunching inside the glacier and outside as it falls into the lake with a bang. I only managed to capture one smaller crash on film. You have to blow the pictures up, but look just above center. The wall is estimated to be 20 stories above the water and 40 stories underwater. The chunk I caught on film was all 20 stories, it just happened to be a long way away and I had a 50 mm lens.

Uncle Walter.

ps. A guy could serve a lot of brandies with all that ice, huh, Bobby?

Chile-Arg boarder, Cancha Carrrera, Patagonia 5-9-10

After leaving the park the sun never came out. The temp never came up. By 10:30 I made it to the Chile/Argentina boarder, at Cancha Carrera. It is a small town of 3 blocks by 4 blocks. It took me only 3 times to find the gas station on the edge of town. The station attendant, an 8 year old boy, was happy, friendly and very talkative. Before I could take his picture his mother called him back into the house to help with something. If you look closely in front, by the head light of la poderosa, you can see the little door where he passed the gas hose out to me. It was the best gas station I’ve found yet.

From there I went looking for food. There are 2 places in town to eat. The bigger one which had 2 cars out front, and the little one that had smoke coming out the chimney. I went to the smaller. The nice little lady said lunch was no where near ready, but maybe she could round something up in an hour or so. I said that would be fine, I only had an hour or two to El Pargue National de los Glaciers. The dinning room was cold, because it’s little heater had not been lit. She invited me into the kitchen to sit by the fire while I waited. She made tea for the 2 of us and we chatted. Then the home made buns came out of the oven. They were served with real butter and fresh chile. Then, the egg-drop soup arrived, followed by lamb stew on noodles. All the while we talked about her first grand child, her kids, the ranch, life in the states. I did not order any of it, I had just asked if she was making lunch. She just kept tending the fire, serving the food and dotting. I don’t think I could have gotten Pops out of her kitchen. .

I was the second person to cross the boarder that day. After signing all the paperwork for the Chilean customs officer, which includes 4 signatures, he said “ Y las llaves, por favor.” I looked at him oddly, while getting the keys out of my pocket. He pointed to the last signature and said in perfect English. “ I now own you motorcycle.” I started laughing, handed him the keys, and said, “Buena suerte, y no olvide a cambiar el acete, esta un poco quemado.” He handed back the keys and laughed “ Entonces, que tenga un buen viaje.”

The sun never came out and the temperature never made it above the mid twenties, but it was 82 and sunny.

Uncle Walter

Ps. Syd, I know Pops got that, but can you translate that for Butts. Thanks.

Torres del Paine May 7-9, 2010

Odometer: 3750.2


Torres del Paine National Park is named after the granite towers of rock. It is located out near the end of the world. It is it's own destination, making it more remote. It is mostly closed for the winter and close to nothing is open. It is beautiful but desolate this time of year.

After getting some incorrect information from the entrance Forrest Ranger, I found my self in a little bit trouble. No camp grounds were open and darkness was setting in. There was a group of scientists, who had just finished the year in Antarctica, looking for shelter and food as well. They had talked to the same ranger. The ranger at the North entrance said this place was open. Ooops. That was over 48 km back, and darkness had set in. We all made camp near the South ranger station.

The wind blew all night. I spent the night under the wind, I mean, the stars, hidden behind a clump of bushes and shrubs. The scientists hid behind the next group of bushes. I was awoken by the snow mixed with rain around 0:200. I pulled the bevy over my head and went back to sleep. Around sunrise the wind stopped and never picked back up. The day was clear and sunny. 82'F and sunny, well more like 35, but what a great day in the park. I bike and hiked all morning. No place to eat till around 2:00, making it 26 hours from my last meal. I was a bit hungry when I came across an open restaurant. I only had to only pay $27.00 for a burger with lettuce and tomato, fries and a coke. Ahhhh.

Having eaten enough for the day, I did bike maintenance and made camp in a closed for the season campground. I slept under the stars again. Around 01:00 I was awoken by what sounded like hoof beats. It was the first of about a dose horses. I said "Guten abend, Herr Pferd," to the first one, as I couldn't remember the word caballo. He stopped, turned his head and looked at me. Then my Spanish came back. I said "Buenos Noches, Don Caballo, como le va?" He neighed a very nice reply, shook his head up and down 2 times like horses do, gesturing if he could continue. I said, Passe, no me hace caso.” He nodded again and continued. The others simlpy kept moving. 6 or so passed between me and La Poderosa, not touching a thing. The others on one side or the other. I guess they were not much up for chatting.

Sun rise was beautiful. There was no wind and I left the park.

Uncle Walter

Ride from Provnir to Torres del Paine May 6+7. 2010

Got up before sun rise and made it to the ferry on time. The ferry crossed the Estrecho de Magallanes in about 2 and half hours. Sun rise looked promising. It was about 24'F at the start. One hour into the ride the winds picked up and it started to snow. A bit later rain mixed in. Then snow, rain and wind, the straight of Magellan living up to it’s reputation. A perfect day for a duck and Uncle Walter. I hunkered down in Punta Arenas and worked on la Poderosa. Odometer on arrival 3502.6

5/7

Arose after sunrise and left late. The roads by then were in good shape, mas or menos. In a small bay on the way out, some splashing along the shore line caught my eye. It turned out to be dolphins eating. They are fast! I would hate to be a little fish. One minute just hanging out in school, learning what ever it is little fish learn, and kabamb!!! you're a dolphin scooby snack. The little fishes had no chance. It was a great show.

The ride from there took me back out across the pampas (the desert grass lands of Patagonia). The winds stayed down till after 1:00, than steadily picked up. I stopped to take the above picture of the ranch named after Chula-bean and could tell it was about to start. About 30 minutes later I came across a cattle drive like the one pictured. The cattle drive had bout 150 head coming down the road. I stopped, shut the engine off, put the kickstand down, leaned into the wind (onto the kickstand) to watch. Bammmmmmb! Along came a big gust! Couldn't hold her. La Poderosa and Uncle Walter got knocked over flat. Took about 1/3 of a second and I was eating sand, La Poderosa unscratched. By the time I got the bike back up, with the help of some nice Argentinos, I was surounded by cows, dogs and cowboys. Couldn't take a picture as the wind kept blowing and it took 3 of us to keep the bike upright. When all the cows past a guy with a van pulled up and blocked the wind long enough for me to get going. I only got knocked over 1 more time, about an hour later. I had stopped to take a picture of los torres, in a well protected spot and a gust came form no where and flattened me and the bike again. No worries, no one hurt.

Uncle Walter

5-5-10 Provenir, Chile

Odometer: 3483
Turned out to be a nice day for a ride. The last 94 miles into Provenir from the Arg/Chile boarder were all dirt. I saw 4 cars the entire drive. 2 I passed as we left the boarder together and the same 2 passed me when I stopped to take the pictures of the flamingos for little Rose, 1 km out of Provenir. Thought little Rose would like them. The road was one curve and hill after another. Missed the ferry by only 14 hours. I was hoping to mae it to Punta Arenas. Will catch the next tomorrow at 08:00.

Uncle Walter

5-3-2010 Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

Odometer: 3134.5 miles

I pulled into Ushuaia a little after dark last night. The ride from Rio Gallegos is not too far, but you have to cross the Argentina-Chile boarder twice and take a ferry ride. The 100 miles through Chile is almost all dirt and is failry rough. The wind persisted all day except for the last 60 miles or so. As you enter the mountains before getting to Ushuaia the trees begin to return and the wind abates. The scenery becomes fantastic. The temperature kept dropping and got below freezing. There was snow at the top of the pass and down the back side into Ushuaia. All went well.

Ushuaia is a big town nestled between the mountains and the ocean. To celebrate Pepillon's birthday I got up early and went searching for penguins. I was hoping to kiss one for her, but there are none to be found. They are all at sea and will stay out there for 6 to 9 months. They only come ashore to lay their eggs and raise the little ones a wee bit before heading back out.

With that I went to El Parque National Tierro del Fuego. It is a wonderful park. The mountains look alot like the Rockies, but because of their exteme southern locatioin the tree line is much lower. The peaks are snow covered. The sun came out when it could. I made to the end of the road. The Pan-American highway winds no further. The little gps I have says I am only 7253 miles away(S 54'51.31.7" W 068'34.00"). All vectors from here will have a northward inclination. That means only one thing. Ma start making the goody rolls, I am on way home! I should be home sometime between late August and your birhtday. I think the road in the Andes between here and home might be a little bendy. Actual milage may vary.

Uncle Walter

5-1-10 Rio Gallegos, Patagoñia, Argentina

I have pushed hard to make it to Southern Argentina. I would have gone much slower if not for the poor start. oh well. Rio Gallegos is the the last city before entering Tierra del Fuego. I will head to Ushaiua tomorrow morning. Crossing the southern part of Argentina has been a test of will. Form Bahia Blanca to Rio Gallegos it is all desert. It starts out looking like the worst of Texas: shrubs, cactus and sand to rock and wind. The shrubs start out about 3 feet tall and just get smaller till there is nothing, then they gradualy start to grow again, now here at Rio Gallegos abut 4 inches.

I had heard how stong the wind is while crossing Patagonia, but wow!! you have to feel it to believe it. The Dakotas have nothing on Patagonia. There was a steady strong, west to east wind as I headed south. This caused the bike to lean into the wind; a starboard list. A list so strong that in turns to port at highway speeds, the bike stayed in a starboard list. The wind was present and steady all 3 days. Exposed skin was simply sandblasted. It tooks it´s toll on the poderosa and me, but we made´r. And the temp continues to drop, now about 38F.

Tomorrow I will push on to Ushuia, where the road ends.

Uncle Walter

PS. some facts: if you like that kinda thing.
1. starting milage Buenos Aires 881.5
2. overnighted in the following cities:
1. arriveed Necochea waiting for the title: 1200+ miles
2. Las Grutas: 1848 miles. 4-29
3. Caleta Olivia: 2322.5 miles. terrible hotel, but friendly 4-30
4, Rio Gallegos: 2,768.5 miles. 5-1
2. my exercise gps indicates Necochea is 6340 miles from the shack.
3. the southern cross really points south.
4. still looking to kiss un lobo marino.