Tarapoto, the edge of the Amazon, San Martin, Peru, 22-7-2010

 
 
 
 

Tarapoto, the edge of the Amazon, San Martin, Peru, 22-7-2010

Odometer: 10,890.3 miles

Our decent from 4818 meters continued down to Tarapoto, a town on the eastern boarder of the Amazon. With the decent down into the basin came a rise in temperature. It is hot and muggy and (to Mari´s delight) buggy. Wew, lots of bugs. The bugs became the new hazard on the road; your helmet and neck kill them by the 1000´s. Nasty.

When we got to our Hotel in Tingo Maria(20-7-2010, odometer:10,586.3 miles) there was a crocidile in the pool. It had been scaring all the village for years and the little kids could not go swimming. The crock had eaten over 100 people. The village did not know what to do. They asked if I could help. I said ¨youbetcha.¨
I went down to the pool and had a little chat with the croc. Turns out he had a toothache, or so he said. I was not sure. I thought maybe, he was telling a fib, and when i get my head in there to check it out, CHOMP!!! No more Uncle Walter. Well, I didn´t like that option. Still the kids needed a place to swim. So I took a big pepper shaker down to the pool and shook it all around; pepper every where. Then I waited. And when he was inhaling a big breath for the worlds biggest sneeze, I jammed a big bar of steal inot his mouth to lock it open.. Then i pulled all his teeth, not one was bad, the big fibber-lier. Then, just to be safe, and show him who is king of the Amazon, I kicked his butt in a two-out-of-three-winner-takes-all Sumo Wrestling Extrvaganza. And, well, let´s just say, the kids now swim everyday with out a care, and I have wrestled better oponents.

Uncle Walter

Happppppy Anniversary Mom and Dad!!!!!!

Some interesting side notes, if you like those.


1. I forgot to note, on our way into Ayacucho, just before my nap along the road, in the north-north-western horizon, I could see the 3 stars in the handle of the big dipper, but no part that holds the soup.

2 In Tingo Maria, I could see the handle and the first two stars in the ladle, not yet the North Star.

3. Just before riding into La Quiaca, Argentina, I crossed the Tropic of Cancer.

4. I am now at the same latitude as Ndololegi, Tanzania, where Fr. Danny lives in Africa.

5, I haved logged over 10,000 miles total so far, and of those, over 3000 have been on dirt.

6. My A33 is sore.

7. Yes, sometimes Uncle Walter uses that word in front of his nieces, even the young ones. Uncle Jerry uses worse. He is soooo naughty, right Uncle Sharon

Huanuco, Huanuco, Perú 20-7-2010

 
 
 
 

Huanuco, Huanuco, Perú 20-7-2010

Odometer: 10506.9 miles

The Monday morning traffic leaving Lima was horrible. After 2 hours of struggling with traffic we finally got out. The total distance was 15 miles. From the Western outskirts of the city we started the climb up and over the andies to the final elevation of 4818 meters (15,807 feet). Because of the quick ascent we all have headaches, noticed loss of peripheral vision, and decreased color sensitivity. Not really the vision things, but it sounds cool, right Linders A?

We start to drop down onto the Altiplano and see two large dark clouds that are obviously dropping rain. We ride into them. The first is only caring a little rain mixed with snow, the 2nd has a hail surprise. The hail hurts likes the dickens. We try to drive through, but it makes it worse. We slow, it does not matter, the hail just pounds.

To get out of the last of the rain we stop in a small village. Along the side walk, under a tarp, there is an old woman hand turning alpaca wool into yarn for knitting. I go and stand under the tarp with her and strike up a conversation. Her accent is thick, but understandable. She normally speaks Ketchua, the local Inca dialect. Her 4 year old grandson comes over to see what is happening. I over shake his hand so his entire body shakes. He laughs. His 5 year old sister comes over to shake hands, too. I give her the same treatment. She giggles. I then go across the street to the candy vendor and by some chocolate and return. I break off a piece for the little boy, his sister and myself. Grandma hides sheepishly under her hat. The children both say thank you without prompts from their grandmother. Big smiles all around. Not one cow kisser in the bunch. I then hand grandma a piece. A big mistake. Grandma’s smile is huge and toothless.

I can´t resist. I have the children show me their teeth again. I show them mine. All present, no cow kissers, three for three. Grandma shows her lack of teeth. With that I then explain to the children that in my country we believe that you teeth fall out only by kissing cows, and therefore, their grandma must be a cow kisser. They giggle…. a lot! but very respectfully, no pointing, no shouting, no talking, just giggling. Grandma keeps smilig with her lips tight. Grandma turns her head slowly away, then turns back with a big smile and the piece of chocolate held between her gums, making one brown tooth. We all have a good laugh. As I leave, giving each kid a good handshake, Grandma gives me one more big toothless grin.

Uncle Walter

Party at Lindser´s!!!

Lima, Perú 15-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Lima, Perú 15-7-2010

Odometer: 10239.4 miles

The pass from Ayacucho to the pacific goes up and over the Andes at 4750 meters (15,584 feet). It stays up and over 4000 meters for over 100 kms. It was a little chilly, but not too bad. The landscape at that altitude has always been amazing and here again it was not disappointing. After the 100 kms it finally started to descend, and the fun only increased. There seems to be something fun about a motorcycle, smooth tar, and 15,000 ft of decent in the Andes. The Peruvian road engineers are not afraid to put in switchbacks, tight turns, curves and bends. More than one switch back came back around over 260 degrees. It is mind boggling how the road cuts into the mountain, out and around the turn and then back under the road above it. Sweeeeeet. It makes for an excellent day. The decent was so long that we had to stop halfway down for lunch. It is hard to keep your concentration focused hours on end, and your smiling face muscles need some rest as well. And, just like getting ready to do an awsomer move off the dock, where you have to curl your toes over the edge and think--- safety first! Right Clem?

Between Ayacucho and Lima we spent a night in Pacara, on the coast(Odometer: 10,070.2 miles) I went down to the beach for breakfast. I saw this pelican and thought, hmmmm, I still owe Pepillon´ a kissed penguin for her birthday, maybe I can switch that for a pelican. The pelican was a bit shy at first, but once I explainded it was for you Pepillon´, she gave me a big birthday kiss for you. Then, too, she also explainded that it is not every day she gets to kiss a handsome gringo with a funny spanish accent and she didn´t want to pass on such a great opportunity. I only wished she had brushed her teeth. I could tell she had fish for breakfast, fish for dinner and fish for lunch. Weeewwww, stinky.

We are currently held up in Lima while the mechanics go over Josh´s bike. It has a few issues; the wiring, the starter, the alternator, the battery, timing, combustion, exhaust, and the front tire, front and rear suspension. After explaining all the major problems to the mechanic, he took out a picture of a bike that is designed to help him remember all the issues, by marking the locations. He just circled the entire bike and smiled. We smiled back, knowing clearly, we were all on the same page.

Uncle Walter

Ayacucho, Central Highlands, Perú 12-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Ayacucho, Central Highlands, Perú 12-7-2010

The road to Ayacucho continued to beautiful as well. The people along the way were very friendly and talkative. We stopped in one town for some rest and a coke. The little kids gathered to look at and touch the motorcycles. That always means I get to examine homework and find out about their girl friends. This little gut had answered all his math questions correctly and had assured me he had no girlfriends. Mahout, can you say the same?

We arrived in Ayacucho 2 hours after dark. There were 2 different roadblocks for construction that held us up. After some debate and rest we decide to go around. The path was on a goat trail that some cars had converted to a road to by-pass the same. At the point of no return, 15 meters into the by-pass we all regretted the decision. At about 100 meters into it I actually slid passed Carsten on my way to the bottom, the rear wheel locked and the dust and dirt flying. Somehow the bike stayed up right and no damage was done. Just after we made it around the first, we came up on the 2nd. It was dark now, so I lay down in the dirt to take a nap. So nice.

Uncle Walter

Andahuaylas, Central Highlands, Peru 11-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Andahuaylas, Central Highlands, Peru 11-7-2010

Odometer: 9677.1

We started to chat with the locals about where to go next, Ayancucho (off the gringo trail) or to Nasca(on the gringo tail). Only one person, a young nursing student, has been to both. She recomended we go to Aynacucho.

The one big thing against the road to Ayancucho is it is 275¬+ miles of dirt. Getting to see Peru at it´s finest is well worth it.

Along the way up and over the pass to Andahuaylas (pronounced Andahuaylas) we encounter some huge traffic jams of cows, sheep and pigs. The one little old lady hearding the cows across the road kept saying something in Ketchua, the native Incan language. I am sure she did not want her picture taken, but she kept smiling and giggling while moving the cows around me and up the road. Finally her curiosity got the best of her and she looked directly at me. The sun was a bit bright above tree level, but the result is ok.

You can also see in the last photo, the road got a bit rough.

Uncle Walter

Abancay, Central Highlands, Peru 10-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Abancay, Central Highlands, Peru 10-7-2010

Odometer: 9586.3 miles

A decent down to a beautiful desert along a river. A climb up and out of the canyon, first the cyprus, then pine, then above tree level. Only to decend again.

Wow!

Uncle Walter

The ride to Santa Teresa and back to Cusco

 

 

 

 

Uncle Walter

Cusco, Altiplano, Peru 4-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Cusco, Altiplano, Peru 4-7-2010

Odometer: 9139.2 miles

Cusco is a beautiful city. We use it as a base to work on the bikes and to go to Machu Picchu. The tour operators ask for astronomical amounts of cash for the tours offered. We start asking the locals about alternatives. One waitress suggests we ride up to Santa Teresa and continue to the hydro-electric plant. From there you can walk into Aguas Calientes, and from there to Machu Picchu.

After another days study, we put together enough info, off-load our long riding equipment , pack the bikes with the minimum, and head off to Santa Teresa, the hydro-electric plant, and the back door to Machu Picchu. It is hard to say what was better. Machu Picchu or the ride to get there and back. Wow.

Uncle Walter

Flash Details:

Hydro-electric plant: 7-7-2010 Odometer: 9296.1 miles, leave the bikes with Doña Chino
Train to Aguas Calientes: 8 kms
Bus to Machu Picchu 8-7-2010, climb above the ruins to the top of Mt Machu Picchu, bus down and train back to Hydro-electric plant, bike to Santa Maria: odometer: 9318.2 miles
Arrive Cusco 9-7-2010 Odometer: 9454.5 miles
Off to Nasca

10 minute water stop, Urcos, Peru 3-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Gotta love this place!

Uncle Walter

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Perú 1-7-2010

 

 

 

 

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Perú 1-7-2010

Odometer: 8889.2 miles

Border crossings are always fun. The crossing into Peru was the first real test for my new license plate. When I crossed into Bolivia I had my new plate on, but no one looked at it. However, today, Peruvian Customs was a little more detailed orientated and came out to inspect the bikes. I passed with flying colors. He didn´t notice that Minnesota is spelt with only one N. OOOOps. I think now I will make it all the way without difficulty.

The main objective for stopping in Puno is to go out to the floating islands. They were really neat, but a little overdone. Still, fun was had by all.

Uncle Walter